Bar of America has been serving food, drink and fun in historic downtown Truckee for over half a century

If walls could talk, the red brick building at the corner of Donner Pass Road in downtown Truckee would have plenty to say. Anchoring Commercial Row, its storied occupants have included a stove and tinware shop, (intermission for a fire), a four-story Victorian hotel, an eatery called the California Restaurant, a bus station and Bank of America branch. In 1974, Reno restaurateur Jack Leonesio played on the previous tenant’s name and launched the ever-lively Bar of America, which last year marked a half century along this stretch once known as “Whiskey Row.”

Bar of America’s well-stocked Old World-style bar is a focal point of the restaurant, photo courtesy Bar of America

Bar of America is currently owned by Tom Turner, a Modesto native and UC Berkeley grad who spent his childhood vacationing at the lake. “I had my first pancake in Tahoe in 1953,” recalls Turner, who moved to Tahoe full-time in 1980. 

Since then, the serial restaurateur has had a hand in the former Fresh Ketch in South Lake Tahoe and partnered with TS Restaurants in the launching of Sunnyside Restaurant & Lodge on the West Shore. He opened Gar Woods Grill & Pier in Carnelian Bay in 1988, followed by Riva Grill in South Lake Tahoe, Caliente (now closed) in Kings Beach and, most recently, Sparks Water Bar at Sparks Marina. 

When Turner bought Bar of America in 2012 from Ed Coleman and Robyn Sills, who were also previous proprietors of Pianeta down the street and Christy Hill in Tahoe City, he purchased the adjacent Pacific Crest Grill from the pair, eventually folding that white tablecloth dining space into Bar of America operations.

Last year Turner acquired the vacated Sierra Sotheby’s space one door down, expanding Bar of America’s footprint and enhancing culinary operations to better accommodate large groups and private parties. Seating capacity across the three conjoined spaces is now around 260, including 115 in the bar area, 100 in the two dining rooms and 44 on the streetside patios in warmer months.

Entering the establishment via the buzzy bar, it feels like not much has changed since Truckee’s early and often rough and tumble days as a stage stop then railroad town. This is by design. The elaborate and eye-catching walnut-and-oak wood bar complete with Corinthian columns and arches was actually transplanted to the restaurant from the Bay Area. Known as a Brunswick bar, the handsome Old World-style piece “came from a ship that was docked in the San Francisco Bay that sailed around the cape before the Panama Canal was built,” says general manager Amanda Washburn. “Ed and Robyn purchased it from an establishment that never managed to open near the ballpark in San Francisco and had it installed in Bar of America in 1999.” The well-worn flooring that looks as though it has been there forever they reclaimed from an old airplane hangar.

The towering Firecracker BBQ Burger is a popular menu item, photo courtesy Bar of America

Large street-front windows provide natural light in the bar area outfitted with padded maroon booths and high-tops; wrought iron chandeliers also illuminate from above. The walls—some exposed brick—are lined with artifacts and memorabilia: the requisite sleds, snowshoes, stuffed animal heads, along with vintage photos depicting Truckee’s earlier years. A slightly Hopper-esque street scene was painted by an artist named Tom Sweeney. “His brother Bill and friend Patrick Callaghan bartended at the time and paid Tom in drinks,” says Washburn. 

In addition to the rotating beer taps, Bar of America’s bawdy and naughty specialty cocktail list—perhaps a nod to the days when bordellos also did a bustling business up and down this stretch of town—includes more suitable for work drinks such as a six-month barrel-aged old-fashioned mixed with smoked orange and Aztec Chocolate Bitters and an orange twist and Luxardo cherry garnish.

Area bands Rustler’s Moon, Rick Hays & American Steel, Blues Monsters and New Wave Crave set up in the bar’s exposed brick back corner, kicking up the energy level and volume with a variety of country, classic rock and ‘80s tunes Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. 

While the bar may headline here, folks also come for the “campfire cuisine,” including the option to retreat to the pair of quieter dining rooms, where in warmer months, window walls open to the action outside—including the occasional rumble of a Union Pacific train trundling past.

The hearty offerings here focus on classic comfort food. 

Fish tacos are a longtime lunch favorite, photo courtesy Bar of America

“The menu features large portions and bold flavors,” says chef Ryan Duin, a South Lake Tahoe High and Lake Tahoe Community College grad who spent a decade at sister restaurant Riva Grill. “It’s user-friendly and elevated without pretentiousness. We like to give people what they want.” 

Duin tinkers with the menu twice a year, sourcing ingredients locally when possible from purveyors such as Tahoe Food Hub, Marigold Microgreens and Alibi Ale Works. “I scour Tahoe Food Hub to create our specials,” says Duin, who also exchanges ideas with chefs helming the other Turner-owned eateries. 

So what do diners want? Customers keep coming back for appetizers such as the Six Shooter Poppers—jalapeños stuffed with chorizo, Italian sausage and cheddar, fried and delivered in shot glasses with a side of habanero aioli. Also popular are the St. Louis Black & Tan Ribs, rubbed and smoked for three days then braised in a Guinness barbecue glaze. The ahi poke nachos layer marinated ahi, avocado, habanero aioli, unagi sauce, sesame seeds and green onions atop fried wontons. “We can’t take those off the menu,” says Duin.

Longtime lunchtime favorites include the pastrami Reuben with house-made sauerkraut, the blackened salmon and dill caper aioli sandwich, and the Firecracker BBQ Burger built with a char-grilled tenderloin patty, cheddar, spicy onion strings, bacon, habanero aioli, barbecue sauce, tomato and spring mix on a brioche bun.

Pizzas are baked in a hybrid infrared and wood-fired oven. The Red, White & Blue layers alfredo sauce, smoked chicken, bacon, Frank’s RedHot sauce, Point Reyes blue cheese and caramelized onion, and the ’Shrooms pie gets basil pesto, wild mushrooms, artichoke hearts, Parmesan and arugula. Cauliflower crust is also available. 

Dinner staples include the popular prime rib with garlic-roasted fingerling potatoes and horseradish cream. Meat lovers also opt for the hearty Riskey Whiskey rib eye finished with Bulleit bourbon peppercorn sauce and truffle mashed potatoes. The pistachio-crusted Chilean sea bass sits atop pesto risotto and roasted red pepper cream, and a cold-smoked duck breast finished with blood orange and thyme glaze comes with polenta cakes, garlic-roasted Brussels sprouts and basil oil. Seared diver scallops are served with pork belly, sweet basil risotto, citrus jus and pomegranate reduction.

Weekend brunch brings Benedicts and biscuits and gravy, along with a cool combo of bacon-stuffed buttermilk waffles and Rice Krispie fried chicken with blueberry chipotle syrup and fresh berries.

Saved room for dessert? The apple crisp and the All American chocolate brownie, both topped with caramel sauce, fresh berries and Hoch family vanilla bean ice cream, are always available.

The wine list sticks to some 50 familiar, mostly California labels, including a rosé and pinot from nearby Truckee River Winery.

On another neighborly note, Bar of America has found an additional worthy way to honor the area’s past with an eye on the future. By giving guests the option to add a donation to the Tahoe Fund, over the past decade, Turner’s Tahoe Restaurant Collection has marshaled nearly $200,000 toward the organization’s efforts to support environmental projects plus hiking and biking trails around the Tahoe watershed. That, too, is a good tale to add to the historic red brick building’s legacy.

Susan D. Rock is Tahoe Quarterly’s longtime Food & Wine editor.