Located on Ebbetts Pass south of Lake Tahoe, Bear Valley boasts expansive backcountry terrain and an old-school vibe reminiscent of simpler times

The line starts with a few wiggles among old-growth red firs and a low-angle traverse. Sticking to the fresh track established by ski patrol is crucial, as the easy entry quickly shifts to a steep rollover. The snow is light and fluffy on top, with a thick, spongy, cohesive base underneath. Patrick Kamman, assistant director of ski patrol at Bear Valley Mountain Resort, drops in first, testing and then swiftly confirming the prime conditions. 

Patrick Kamman, Bear Valley’s assistant director of ski patrol, shows the way around his home mountain, photo by Ming Poon

It feels like we’re in some far-off land scoring what skiers and riders often dream of, but we’re just a few hours from Tahoe on the west slope of the Sierra, experiencing a true hidden gem in the Range of Light. 

As the crow flies, Bear Valley is about 30 to 40 miles from Lake Tahoe. By road, however, the resort is about 120 miles from Tahoe’s South Shore and a 3- to 4-hour drive come winter. It’s a hard sell leaving all the access that Tahoe provides for what on the surface seems like a small, off-the-beaten-path ski area that’s lost in time. But that’s part of the allure.

“Bear Valley is a pretty special place that has amazing skiing both inbounds and out of bounds—simply good skiing, no lift lines and unlimited untracked backcountry,” says Kamman. “Living here feels like a bit of a step back in time to when I first learned to ski in Montana 30-plus years ago. It’s definitely not about all the glitz and glam of the big resorts. And that’s the way I like it—simple.” 

Wise words that might not land with everyone, but in today’s ski world, many resorts prioritize amenities and image over the ski experience itself. Bear Valley has retained a character that feels more in line with the past, when the sport didn’t involve anxiety over a parking spot and worries that if you’re not waiting in the lift line before the chairs start spinning on a powder day, you’re missing out. 

In fact, the opposite seems to have prevailed: a true community of mountain people dedicated to living a high-quality life in the Sierra regardless of new norms pushed by the ski industry, which often burdens local environments and communities to maximize revenue. 

End of the Road

One of the reasons Bear Valley is unique is its location. Once Ebbetts Pass closes for the winter, usually in October, the area is that much harder to reach. Those who visit must put in the effort to do so. 

The Bear Valley Lodge is the spot for longtime locals, first-time visitors and everyone in between, photo by Ming Poon

“I think the fact that Bear Valley is the end of the road in the winter keeps this place and the people grounded,” says Kamman. “The town doesn’t plow the roads in the wintertime, and there’s something special about the process of living here. Folks have to either snowmobile, snowshoe or ski just to get home. Everything seems to revolve around the week’s forecast, snow and skiing.   

“That process creates some hardy individuals and a strong mountain community that gives purpose to living here.” 

The latter is what I have come to know from my few memorable visits. The people are the salt of the earth, boasting a sense of purpose that aligns with the backyard they call home. There’s more to Bear Valley than the skiing, but the skiing seems to focus everything, “from the small number of locals that wait for first chair to the ski patrol that start their shift at 5 a.m.,” says Kamman. 

“Everyone has a reason for being here: Great skiing without the distractions and complexities you might find elsewhere,” he adds. 

While Bear Valley offers inbounds terrain for all levels, the backcountry access is also phenomenal. Ski patrol has a good relationship with the U.S. Forest Service and hopes to continue working with them in the years to come, ideally offering even more access to their already stellar terrain as opportunities arise.  

Old-school chairlifts provide access to incredible terrain, photo by Ming Poon

Those who do make the trip to Bear Valley will find comfortable places to stay, delicious food and friendly locals—everything they’d expect from a modern ski resort. It might just be a different travel experience, especially for those accustomed to visiting places like Northstar or Mammoth. Compared to those resorts, Bear Valley receives a fraction of the visitors, and its surrounding backcountry sees even less traffic. 

Years ago, this was my initial impression of the area. I rarely saw another person when touring from the east side of Ebbetts Pass. Maybe that’s because I commonly had to ride a bike to access snow on the high flanks of Silver Peak and the aesthetic terrain that drops off from the Pacific Crest Trail near the top of the pass. 

When Route 4 is open come May or June, there’s likely to be good summer skiing off Highland Lakes Road. But as Kamman says, when the road closes, even though Bear Valley isn’t too far away, it becomes an adventure to get there.  

Avalanche Educators and Guides

Picture the quintessential mountain couple: backcountry skiing with their dog, grinning from ear to ear, their energy exuding gratitude and immersion in the outdoors. 

This is Natalia and Alex Dodov, Bear Valley residents and founders of the Nickolay Dodov Foundation, commonly referred to as the NDF. 

Bear Valley Ski Patrol works closely with their community, including the Nickolay Dodov Foundation, which provides free avalanche education to communities across the Sierra, photo courtesy NDF

The foundation is the leading provider of free avalanche education in Northern California, sharing valuable lessons to more than 30,000 ski and snowboard athletes over the past 12 years through the “Know Before You Go” program and interactive workshops. 

The NDF is incredibly active in the Tahoe area, on all sides of the lake, including Truckee. Their work is powerful, far-reaching and grounded in a love that was ultimately born from great loss. In 2012, Natalia and Alex’s son Nick was killed in an avalanche. Since then, the Dodovs have channeled their love for their son and their collective love of nature into becoming dedicated avalanche educators.

To experience the best of Bear Valley, it’s recommended to align a visit with the annual Nickolay Dodov Slopestyle fundraiser in March. 

If you can’t make it in the spring and the backcountry is calling, consider a day with Sierra Wilderness Seminars (SWS). 

Outside Bear Valley’s boundaries, it’s all U.S. Forest Service land open to the public. The thing is, when you’re new to a zone, even experienced backcountry users can get lost and have a tough time nailing good conditions. SWS guides can help visitors get acquainted with the resort’s sidecountry or even venture deep toward Ebbetts Pass, where the only tracks you’ll see are the ones you carved with your crew. 

Last spring, I had the opportunity to explore the resort and its adjacent backcountry with both ski patrol and SWS guide Nate Musson. 

Author Brennan Lagasse enjoys quality turns at Bear Valley, photo by Ming Poon

Musson frequently guides the most popular route in the area, up Mount Reba, which is visible from the resort. He also guides bigger adventures involving snowmobiles and even winter camping gear, in addition to offering avalanche education courses through the SWS Bear Valley office. Musson and SWS founder Tim Keating teach American Avalanche Association Level 1, Level 2 and rescue courses. 

Their office/shop is often where locals end up for aprés-ski sessions—a friendly spot to recap the day and plot the next. They also offer retail and are equipped to tune, repair and help with anything related to the local backcountry.   

Bear Valley exudes a vibe that makes it feel like one of the last great ski resorts. It is a quaint ski area, but when you start looking at all the backcountry potential, it becomes apparent just how big it is—and how much backcountry is out there. 

It’s not too far from Tahoe, but far enough to feel like an entirely different world. Still the Sierra, but in a different hue. It’s certainly worth a visit if you’re looking to visit an authentic mountain community framed by rootsy Sierra ski culture.

Brennan Lagasse is an avid backcountry skier and professor of sustainability at the University of Nevada, Reno at Lake Tahoe. Find more of his writing, ski guiding and nonprofit educational work at stateofthebackcountry.com.